Pura Gunung Kawi is one of Bali’s oldest and strangest sites: an eleventh-century temple and funerary complex where ten shrines have been carved directly into the cliff faces above the Pakerisan River. They were cut during the reign of King Anak Wungsu of the Udayana dynasty and are believed to honour the king and his family.
Getting to them is part of it. The path drops through rice paddies and down more than three hundred stone steps into the river valley, and the candi appear in the rock wall opposite as you descend. Around them are courtyards, pavilions and meditation caves, all still in use — locals continue to pray and leave offerings here, so this is a living site rather than a ruin.
From Natya Resort Ubud it is a 20 to 25 minute drive past rice terraces and small villages, and it pairs naturally with Tirta Empul just up the road.
Come between eight and ten in the morning for cool air and fewer people, or late in the afternoon for softer light. Wear proper walking shoes for the steps, dress modestly — a sarong and sash are usually provided at the entrance — and bring water, because the climb back up is the hard part. Entry is around IDR 50,000.
